Everything you need to know about keycaps

Keycaps are a key element in customizing and enhancing your mechanical keyboard. For those approaching this world, understanding the differences between the various types of keycaps is important to choose the ones that best suit your needs. In this post we will examine in a simple but detailed way the different materials used, the most common profiles (shapes and heights), the main printing techniques of letters, some recommended brands (with value for money) and the typical price ranges, to conclude with practical advice on how to orient yourself in the choice.

Materials

Keycaps are mainly made of plastic. The most common materials are ABS, PBT, and POM, each with different properties, advantages, and disadvantages.

• ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene): This is the most common material in the original keycaps of commercial keyboards. ABS keycaps have a smooth finish and very bright colors (ABS takes pigments well, also used in LEGO). They are appreciated for their smooth touch and sharper, "clicky" sound when typing. In addition, ABS is ideal for backlit keycaps due to its translucency and lends itself to advanced techniques such as double-shot, which we will explore later. On the other hand, ABS is less resistant to wear and tear: with time and prolonged use it tends to shine, losing its initial matte finish. It can also turn yellow if exposed to UV rays for a long time. In summary, it is cheap, has bright colors and a smooth surface; on the other hand, however, it is less durable and polishes over time.

1. PBT (Polybutylene Terephthalate): it is considered a premium material, much loved by those looking for durability and performance in the long run. PBT keycaps have a rougher/matte finish to the touch (they offer more grip) and walls that are often thicker and stiffer than ABS. Perhaps the most appreciated feature is that PBT does not shine easily, even after years of intense use it retains its original texture without becoming shiny. Colors on PBT keycaps tend to be more muted or pastel. PBT typically produces a deeper typing sound (the classic "thock") due to its higher density and thickness. On the other hand, PBT is more difficult to print and process: this can mean a slightly higher cost and less availability of some colors or layouts. In addition, some PBT sets (especially in the past) had small imperfections such as warping (e.g. slightly deformed space bars), although manufacturers have improved the quality a lot in recent years. In summary, they have a very high durability, they do not have a shiny effect, the feeling is solid and textured and they produce deeper sound but you will certainly not find PBT keycaps with bright colors and the costs could be higher than those in ABS, although it depends a lot on the quality you want; for example it is possible to find keycaps in PBT for 20€ on aliexpress but the quality of the product will never be the same as the GMK ones (we will look at them later).

• POM (Polyoxymethylene): This is a material that is occasionally used for particular keycaps. POM keycaps have a very smooth surface and a "waxy" feel under your fingers, offering a different typing experience than usual. They are very dense and robust, resistant to wear and tear and do not tend to shine or discolor practically ever. Some users love POM for its linear, "silky" feedback to the touch. However, POM keycaps are less common for several reasons: they are more expensive to produce and difficult to color (often POM keycaps are only found in a few unique shades, such as milky white or black). In addition, its weight may not appeal to everyone and it is sometimes used more for special keycaps (e.g. translucent "jelly" sets entirely in POM). In summary: it is a material with an ultra-smooth surface with high wear resistance and a unique feeling; however, they have a high cost, a poor choice of colors/designs and are more difficult to find.

To these must also be added more exotic materials such as wood, metal, ceramic and resin.

Keycap profiles

Another key aspect is the profile of the keycaps, so the shape and height of the keycaps. The profile influences ergonomics, how you feel when pressing, and even how you sound when typing. There are various profiles on the market, often indicated by acronyms. Here we focus on the most popular ones among enthusiasts: SA, OEM, Cherry, DSA, XDA, etc. In general, a profile can be sculpted with different heights and angles for each row of keys, creating a more ergonomic surface, or uniform in which all the keys have the same shape/height, giving the keyboard a flat appearance.

Here are the main profiles and their characteristics:

• Cherry (Low Profile & Contour): Originally developed by Cherry Corp, it is widely used in the custom keyboard community. Cherry keycaps have low heights and an aggressive key angle, designed to reduce fatigue and increase typing speed. They are slightly lower than standard OEMs, which helps you move your fingers less from fret to fret. Many high-quality sets (e.g. GMK or Glorious with their GPBT set) adopt the Cherry profile.

o Typical use: Great for extended writing and gaming, thanks to the convenience and speed it offers.

• OEM (Medium Profile and Shaped): This is the standard found on most pre-assembled keyboards (hence the name "Original Equipment Manufacturer"). It is similar to Cherry but slightly higher for each row and with slightly different shapes. It offers a good compromise between comfort and familiarity: switching from a commercial keyboard to a custom one with an OEM profile, you can hardly notice any difference in feeling.

o Typical use: universal, it goes for a little bit of everything, even if to more experienced users it may seem "generic". Many cheap PBT sets intended for beginners are in OEM profile (also because it is easy to produce).

• SA (Very High Profile and Contoured): SA stands for "Spherical All-over". It is famous for its vintage aesthetic reminiscent of typewriters or terminals from the 70s. SA keycaps are large and rounded: each key is high and has a spherical concave top surface. Often the set is shaped by row (the rows of keys have different inclinations). The typing experience with SA is unique: some love it because it offers important tactile feedback and a deep, "thock" sound thanks to the plastic density. On the other hand, the greater height requires more movement of the fingers: for very fast typing or frenetic gaming it can be more tiring, at least until you get used to it.

o Typical use: appreciated by those who write a lot and love a retro touch, less suitable for those who play fast (risk of pressing the high edges of the adjacent keys).

• DSA (Very Low and Uniform Profile): DSA keycaps all have the same height and shape on each row: low, with a slightly concave (spherical) surface and beveled edges. Visually they give the keyboard a flat and uncluttered look. The advantage is that they can be reassembled freely on particular layouts (e.g. ortholinear keyboards or custom arrangements) without worrying about the original position. The feeling is different from contoured profiles: at first it may seem like you have to "search" for the keys because it lacks the angle variation that many are used to.

o Typical use: custom niches, users who want a uniform look or who experiment with alternative layouts.

• XDA (Low and Uniform Profile): Similar to DSA but with a few differences. XDA keycaps have a flat, wider top surface than DSAs, and a slightly higher height. Think of them as a cross between a chiclet (flat laptop-like keys) and a DSA: the wider contact area gives a "smeared" feeling under the finger. XDA is also uniform (no difference between files) and many find it aesthetically minimal and modern.

o Typical use: Those looking for a clean look and love the feel of wide and low keys. It is often chosen for compact keyboards or custom designs.

• MDA (Medium and Contoured Profile): it was created to offer the "spherical" charm of SA keycaps in a lower and more manageable form. Each key retains the circular concave cap typical of vintage mufflers, but the height drops to about 78 mm, halfway between SA/MT3 and Cherry/OEM profiles. The keycaps are slightly sculpted from row to row with a less marked angle to the Cherry profile, they have a large surface area that guides the fingertip to the center. They have a soft and stable touch, takes little time to get used to, and the spherical curvature reduces making mistakes.

o Typical use: Those who adore SA's vintage aesthetic but want a more "dailyfriendly" profile. It is often chosen by writers and typists who are looking for extended comfort without giving up the wide spherical cup.

It should be noted that there are many other profiles in addition to these. For example, MT3 (vintage-inspired high profile, popular on Drop), KAT and DSS, variants created by different manufacturers, or proprietary profiles such as ASA and OSA (developed by Akko and Keychron by combining features from other profiles). To start, though, the Cherry and OEM profiles are generally the most recommended to familiarize yourself with; They are comfortable, widespread and considered a "middle ground" suitable for everyone. High profiles like SA or smooth profiles like DSA/XDA offer different experiences, which you can try later based on your preferences.

Legend Printing Techniques

In addition to material and shape, another key difference between the various keycaps is how the legends (letters, numbers, and symbols) are made on them. The printing or legend production technique affects the durability (wear resistance) and visual quality of the characters. The main techniques used in the production of keycaps are:

• Pad Printing: This is the simplest and most cost-effective technique. The legend is printed on the surface of the key with ink using a printing pad, often followed by a layer of transparent protective varnish.

o Advantages: It allows you to reproduce any graphics or color with low costs, so common in cheap keycaps or layouts with special characters.

o Disadvantages: it is the least durable, over time (even a few months on heavily used keyboards) the ink tends to wear out and the characters fade or erase.

In short, excellent for cutting costs, bad for longevity: printed keycaps pads undergo evident wear and tear with intensive use.

• Laser Etching: In this case, the legends are laser engraved on the surface of the keycap. The laser slightly "burns" the plastic creating the mark; often the engraved part is then filled with a paint or resined with color to make the legend more visible.

o Advantages: Higher accuracy and strength than pad printing as laser legends last longer before wearing out because they are dug into the material. In addition, this technique allows for backlit keycaps: like translucent keycaps (typically ABS), the laser can remove a painted top layer by letting light pass through the legend.

o Disadvantages: the touch finish can be slightly rough when engraved; the variety of colors is limited (usually only one fill color).

It is a medium-cost technique, often used on mid-range gaming keyboards with good but not excellent durability, because over the years the engravings can get dirty or the filler paint wear out.

1. Dye-Sublimation: It is an indirect technique in which the legend is "injected" into the material by pigment transfer. In practice, with heat, a special dye is transferred from the mold to the keycap, permeating the surface of the key.

1. Advantages: the legend becomes part of the keycap itself (it is not embossed), so it cannot fade or wear out to the touch, unless the key is consumed entirely. It also allows for high-resolution printing (e.g. detailed or multi-coloured legends on one side of the key). It's the preferred technique for themed PBT sets (many custom PBT sets use dye-sub to decorate the keys).

2. Disadvantages: it can be applied almost only on PBT material (ABS would not withstand the necessary high temperatures). It also works best by printing dark on light but not the other way around: you can't easily get light legends on dark keycaps with sublimation. Dye-sub legends can be slightly less sharp at the edges (a blurry thread) than double-shot, although better producers get excellent results.

So, the dye-sub keys have excellent durability, the writings do not go away even after years (it will be the keycap itself that will eventually wear out, but hardly the print). An example is the Dark Blush set by Chilkey.

• Double-Shot: It is considered the most valuable technique for keycaps. It is obtained by printing the keycap with two plastics of different colors: the first casting forms the body of the key, the second forms the legend by "filling" the spaces of the first. In practice, the letter is not printed with ink, but is a plastic material in its own right that passes through the keycap.

o Advantages: the legend is permanently embedded, it will never wear out because there is no paint to consume in fact even after decades, the symbol remains sharp. In addition, the double-shot legends are very sharp and defined in the edges, with excellent contrast. This technique also allows for high-quality backlit keycaps: using semi-transparent plastic for the second injection, the letters glow with uniform light.

o Disadvantages: the production cost is high because precision molds are needed (one for each legend/font) and the procedure is complex, so it is used for high-end keysets. Classic double-shot sets are often made of ABS (a material that is easier to inject), but there are also good quality PBT double-shots.

It is a high-cost technique that guarantees excellent durability and the best visual appearance (perfect contrast legends, no smudging). An example is the WS Café set by Wuque Studio.

To sum up, for a beginner: if you are looking for cheap keycaps, know that pad or laser printed keycaps will have less durable legends. Medium/high-end PBT keycaps often use dye-sublimation (excellent compromise: indelible legends and moderate cost). High-end sets (e.g. GMK) use double-shot ABS, offering the top in aesthetics and longevity of legends. If your keyboard is backlit and you want to make the RGB stand out, consider double-shot "shine-through" keycaps or so-called pudding keycaps, which let light through both the characters and the sides. On the other hand, if you prefer themed aesthetics and don't care about backlighting, the dye-sub PBT sets offer tons of color variations and novelties.

Recommended brands (quality/price)

In the world of custom keyboards there are numerous manufacturers of keycaps. Below we list some well-known and reliable brands, with different features and price ranges, also suitable for beginners:

• GMK: is the most famous brand in the field of keycaps: a German company famous for its double-shot ABS sets with an exceptional quality Cherry profile. GMK uses very thick and solid ABS plastics, with very faithful colors and impeccable finishes. GMK sets are considered the standard of excellence, with perfect legends and a top feel. They often collaborate with designers to create limited edition sets, much coveted by collectors, however, quality comes at a price: a GMK basic kit typically costs over €100 (even €120-150), and are often sold in group buys (i.e. pre-orders with long waits).

o Recommended for: those looking for the absolute best and are not afraid of expenses or waiting.

o For beginners: A GMK set can be "overkill" in terms of budget, but it definitely doesn't disappoint in quality.

• Drop: Formerly known as Massdrop. Drop is a large store/community in the USA that produces and sells keycaps and other keyboard components. It offers a wide selection of sets, both in collaboration with top brands (e.g. they sell GMK and Signature Plastics sets) and proprietary lines. For example, Drop has developed its own profiles such as MT3 (high, retro) and DCX (similar to Cherry), and offers thick PBT sets as well as ABS, often in-stock (ready to buy without waiting). Drop quality is generally great, many sets are mid-to-high-end double-shot or dye-sub, and prices range from around €50-60 for standard PBT sets up to ~€100 for fancier sets or collaborations.

o Recommended for: those who want a good quality set immediately, without entering the pre-order circuit; those interested in particular profiles (e.g. MT3) or sets with special themes (Drop collaborates on sets inspired by movies, games, etc.).

o For starters: Drop ships worldwide and often has sets available that are otherwise only found in group buys.

• EnjoyPBT (ePBT): Chinese brand specializing in thick PBT keycaps Cherry profile. In recent years it has gained an excellent reputation, so much so that it is considered immediately after GMK in terms of quality among enthusiasts. ePBT sets are usually dye-sublimated PBTs, so they offer indelible legends and a pleasant matte finish. They often reproduce famous color schemes (clones of popular GMK sets) or propose original themes, but with PBT material. The build quality is high and consistent (~1.5mm thick, good sound). The price of a complete ePBT set is around €70–100, which is lower than GMKs, making them a great choice for those who want premium keycaps without breaking the bank. On the other hand, many ePBT sets are sold through group buys or overseas retailers, so sometimes you have to wait or look for available stock.

o Recommended for: Those who prefer PBT and Cherry profile, with a medium budget; great for starting with a quality set without going to GMK costs.

o For beginners: if you want something quality but at a more affordable price than GMK they are a great choice.

• Akko (Epomaker): Akko is a fast-growing Chinese brand that offers keyboards and keycaps with good value for money. Akko keycaps are typically made of PBT (often double-shot or sublimated) with proprietary profiles such as ASA (similar to SA but lower) or even Cherry/OEM depending on the set. The characteristic of Akko is the very competitive price: you can find complete Akko kits for €30–60 with over 130 keys, suitable for covering various layouts. Despite the low price, the quality is surprisingly good: thick PBT, clean legends and neat packaging. Some Akko sets draw inspiration from famous colorways (an example is the Akko Neon set similar to the GMK Laser set) but with their own names and small variations. Sure, compared to GMK/ePBT, they may have slightly less sharp legends or non-identical colors, but for the cost offered they are among the best entry-level. They are also easily available.

o Recommended for: Beginners on a small budget who still want a long-lasting and enjoyable set or those who want to try out different styles on a budget.

• Tai-Hao: historic manufacturer of keycaps (Taiwanese), best known for brightly colored double-shot ABS sets. Tai-Hao has created iconic sets over the years (such as the Miami theme) and also kits with rubberized keys for gaming. Today it offers both ABS and PBT, in OEM or Cherry profile. The quality is good, even if not at the levels of GMK/ePBT: let's say a step above the stock "gaming keyboard" keycaps but a step below the top of the range. A highlight of Tai-Hao are the particular colors and backlit variants: they have many RGB backlit double-shot sets (e.g. transparent keys with colored legend) that other brands do not offer. Prices range from ~30€ for small kits to 60-80€ for special complete sets. They are an interesting option for those who want well-made keycaps with ISO layouts (Tai-Hao produces several sets with Italian or European layout).

o Recommended for: those looking for a mid-range colored set and maybe need ISO ITA layouts; or to add special touches (they have mixed sets with some special keys, e.g. granite textures, etc.).

(Other notable brands: Signature Plastics: Makes the famous SA and DSA keycaps in the US; PBTfans: PBT set line from KBDfans; HK Gaming: budget brand of PBT sets that take up well-known designs; Mistel, Keychron, CanonKeys, etc. Each with their own offerings).

Price Ranges

As we have seen, the price of a set of keycaps can vary enormously based on material, manufacturer, quantity of keys and method of sale. They range from cheap sets from €20-30 up to sets from over €200 on the secondary market.

In general, cheap sets (< 50€) are often made of PBT (or cheap ABS) pad molded or sublimated, sold by Chinese brands (Akko, YMDK, HK Gaming) or as clones of famous sets. They have a high quality/price ratio but may have small imperfections (e.g. legend not very centered) or lack some keys for less standard layouts.

Mid-range sets (50-100€) generally include most enthusiast keycaps: for example, many dye-sub PBT kits (ePBT, Drop, Keychron, etc.) fall into this range, offering very good quality at a reasonable price.

The high-end sets (> 100€) are typically double-shot ABS sets from top manufacturers such as GMK or SP or special limited edition sets. You pay for quality and exclusivity: perfect colors, precise tolerances, thick plastic and very complete layouts.

However, it must be noted that spending twice as much does not mean having a double experience: often a €50 set offers 90% of the quality of a €150 one at half the price. So, for a beginner, an intermediate set can already fully satisfy without emptying the wallet.

Layout ISO o ANSI?

Special attention should be given if you need a layout other than the classic ANSI US. Many sets (especially inexpensive ones) do not include keycaps for ISO layouts (Vertical Enter, extra <> key, etc.) or for local layouts (accented letters). If you use an ISO-IT layout and want the legends in Italian, the options are restricted to the few sets produced ad hoc such as the MK Classic (Tai-Hao makes some). Alternatively, you can use international sets (English legends) on the ISO keyboard: the aesthetics don't change much, you'll just have to remember a few symbols by heart. So be sure to check the compatibility of the keycaps with your layout before purchasing (most sellers list the included keys).

Some sets could also come with keycaps of both layouts so as to be more universal, an example is Chilkey's summer picnic.

The Beginner's Guide

So, the main steps for buying a set of keycaps are:

1. Switch compatibility: almost all keycaps on the market are designed for Cherry MX or compatible switches (the most popular mechanical switches, with a central cross-shaped stem). If your keyboard is equipped with Cherry, Gateron, Kailh, etc. switches, you won't have any problems – you can mount any MX-style set. If, on the other hand, you have keyboards with special switches (e.g. Kailh Choc low-profile, Topre, Logitech Romer-G), be sure to look for specific keycaps for those systems, otherwise they will not be compatible. In general, we recommend using keyboards with standard MX switches to start because of the wide selection of keycaps available.

2. Size and layout of your keyboard: Before buying a set, make sure that it includes all the keys you need for your layout. For example, if you have a keyboard at 60% or 65%, you may need to stabilize the spacebar of different lengths (6u, 6.25u, 7u), a shorter Right Shift, etc. The most comprehensive sets provide a variety of additional keycaps (called compatibility kits) to cover particular layouts (ISO, 65%, 75%, split backspace, etc.). As a beginner, you might opt for standard TKL or 60% keyboards and ANSI layouts to make your life easier – pretty much every set covers them. If you have a non-standard pre-assembled keyboard (like Corsair, Razer full size) check especially the bottom row: some manufacturers use spacers and Ctrl/Win of non-standard sizes, making it difficult to find suitable aftermarket keycaps.

3. Profile and ergonomics: If it's your first set of keycaps, you'll probably want something familiar. In that case, choose an OEM or Cherry profile, which guarantees immediate comfort. The Cherry in particular offers excellent ergonomics for long writing sessions. If you're curious to try something different, you can jump into a profile like SA (for a totally new, vintage-inspired typing experience) or a smooth profile (DSA/XDA) for a modern look. Keep in mind, however, that adapting to very different profiles requires a few days of use; You may make more typos at first. An idea can be to buy cheap test kits or even just some loose keycaps of various profiles to test them (there are for example sampler kits with one button per profile). In any case, the profile is very subjective: there is no "the best" ever, it depends on how you type and your tastes. The beauty of the custom world is being able to try!

4. Aesthetics and theme: Choose a set that you like visually and that perhaps matches your keyboard or workstation. For a first purchase, it might be wise to focus on neutral colors (black, gray, white) or classic combinations (e.g. white on black, gray on black) that are unlikely to tire and look good everywhere. Just keep in mind that very elaborate sets often cost more or are harder to source. A common approach is to start with a simple and inexpensive set, then over time maybe invest in a "dream" set when you have a clear idea of the theme you want.

5. Sound and tactile feel: Keycaps also influence the sound profile of the keyboard. In general, thicker and heavier keycaps (such as PBT 1.5mm, SA profile, etc.) tend to produce a fuller, lower (thocky) sound, while thinner or lighter keycaps (standard ABS, low profile) generate a more clicky or clacky sound. In addition, the surface (smooth or rough) changes the sensation to the touch: there are those who love the smooth silk of the new ABS, and those who prefer the light grip of the textured PBT. Here too there is no right or wrong, it is personal preference. If you like to hear a firm noise with every press, ABS sets (maybe not too thick) on linear switches can give you that high-pitched clack. If you prefer a discreet and muffled sound, PBT is better often on lubricated switches, for a satisfying thocky sound. One trick is to listen to sound tests on YouTube of keyboards similar to yours with different keycaps, to get an idea. However, remember that you can always change the keycaps to change the sound: it is one of the most immediate "mods".

6. Quality vs budget: It's easy to get caught up in the desire to have the perfect set (maybe that super expensive limited edition at first). But the practical advice is to start with something affordable and test it. A well-made 50€ set will already give you a huge improvement over poor stock keycaps and you will be able to understand what you value most (material, profile, finish). In the future, if you want, you can resell your starter set and invest in a higher-end one. Also keep in mind the all-important rule: often a set that costs twice as much only offers room for improvement, not a revolutionary experience. So, you can see how far you can go as an expense, knowing that there are great options at every price point.

7. Legend fonts or blank keycaps: a detail, important for some, is the type of font and style of the legends. Cheap sets sometimes have somewhat "gamer" fonts or inconsistencies (letters that are too thick, different sizes). Quality sets use clean fonts, often inspired by classic IBM fonts. If this aspect interests you, look at close-up photos of the keycaps. Some users even prefer keycaps without legends (blank) for a minimal look and not to worry about the wear of the lettering to start with the standard legends are generally preferred.

8. Community and resources: Finally, a general tip: explore the mech keyboard community to learn more. You can see photos of real configurations with the various keycaps, read opinions about a certain set or ask for advice on compatibility with your specific keyboard. An example of a community is our discord server. Don't be afraid to ask clarifying questions, we've all started from scratch! Join our Discord Community, link on top of the page.

Conclusion

Choosing the right keycaps may seem complicated at first, but by following this guide you will have the basic concepts to orient yourself. Evaluate the material based on your touch and durability preferences, choose a profile that provides you with comfort (Cherry/OEM is ideal for starters), make sure the set uses a good legend printing technique so you don't end up with worn letters, and compare brands to find the price/quality balance that fits your budget. Remember to check compatibility with your layout and switches, and decide where to buy (either in stock or through a group buy and wait). Most of all, have fun customizing: trying out different keycaps is one of the most exciting aspects of the hobby, because with a simple key change your keyboard will have a whole new face and feel. Happy research and have fun!